action to be fulfilled.
On a golden September day in 1863, William and Elizabeth Fisher
set out to make this dream come true.
From
the deck of the full-rigged ship Speedwell
they watched familiar landmarks disappear below the horizon.
It was to be the last time that Elizabeth was to see the island
of her youth and it would be six months before she set foot on the
island of her maturity.
Their
furniture, including among other things a huge mahogany canopied bed,
Elizabeth's rosewood piano and a marble clock which was so heavy that
Captain Hicks, the skipper, must have welcomed it as ballast, were
stored in the hold. Besides
furniture, clothes for all seasons as well as bedding had to be
packed-no wash and wear material in those days!
The bulky dresses and coats, wool blankets and quilts and heavy
linen sheets were packed in trunks.
These were stored in their cabin, hopefully a drier place than
the hold. They would experience freezing cold and tropical heat on the
journey as their course lay around Cape Horn.
In the latitude of South America, bitterly cold winds blew off
the icebergs, and later as they crossed the Equator, the heat would be
oppressive.
On
January 15, 1864, Captain Hicks announced they would be putting into
Honolulu, the capital of the Sandwich Islands, for provisions.
They spent three days there and enjoyed their first real
exercise since leaving England five months previously.
"A Mr. Cording from Victoria came aboard," wrote
grandfather. "He gave a very poor account of it."
After
leaving Honolulu they were to experience more storms but at long last
they sailed into the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
The Speedwell seemed reluctant to let the passengers go ashore without
one last adventure so she ran aground on Brotchie Ledge off Ogden
Point and had to be towed off by the Otter
and piloted into Victoria Harbour.
No
lush green lawns or green-domed Parliament buildings greeted the
passengers. A row of
red-painted, square wooden buildings called "The Birdcages"
represented the Legislature; a smelly swamp resplendent with garbage
was in the location of today's impeccable Empress Hotel; plank
sidewalks on stilts crisscrossed over slimy mud in winter and deep
dust in summer.
A
house was rented on Humboldt Street by my grandparents.
Later they moved to James Bay.
Elizabeth may have been terrified of a watery grave but once
she had solid ground under her feet her zest for living returned and
she was capable of facing up to this strange new world.
And strange it must have been to eyes accustomed to the English
countryside and English customs.
But this was brash young Victoria.
Boisterous gold miners staggered in and out of saloons, elegant
gentlemen in morning coats and top hats either picked their way on
foot amongst the debris of the streets or drove smartly groomed horses
to their places of business.
On May 23rd, two months after arrival, my
grandmother gave birth to my mother in the Woodworth nursing home on
Courtney Street with Dr. Helmcken in attendance.
They christened her Emily Elizabeth.
Two years later her sister Edith Mary was born.
The
Fishers thought it would be a better life for the children in the
country so they left James Bay and bought a small farm at Glen Lake.
Two sons, Henry Tice Lawrence and William Edward were added to
the family.
In
1872 Elizabeth Fisher was to make good use of her teacher's training
when she accepted the position of teacher in the newly opened
Metchosin School. She
took Emily, aged eight, and Edith, aged six, with her as living
quarters had been provided at the rear of the building.
This little schoolhouse, preserved much as it was over 100
years ago, is now a museum and contains among other memorabilia a copy
of grandmother's teacher's certificate dated December 1858, a white
shawl which she brought out from England with her and a
hand-embroidered swatch from her wedding dress.
There are also photos of William and Elizabeth, the "Ferncliffe"
orchard and the first Fisher home on the farm.
The two little boys stayed with their father and Mrs. Morris at
Glen Lake.
Every
Saturday morning grandfather saddled his horse and rode over the hills
to take fresh provisions to his wife and daughters, returning late
Sunday.
It
seems that fate had planned all this, for across the road from the
school, Section 2, 320 acres, was for sale.
It was owned by Sir James Douglas and used as a summer retreat
by his family, having been purchased from Edwin Kitson.
Grandfather sold the Glen Lake farm and bought the entire
acreage running from what is now Rocky Point Road to the sea.
The eastern boundary ran straight between Witty's farm from the
sea to Happy Valley and Rocky Point Roads.
The property on which the Community Hall now stands was donated
by William Fisher.
With
local help grandfather immediately began to develop "Ferncliffe"
as the farm was to be called. The
land was cleared by oxen; a barn, pigpens, sheep cribs and smokehouse
were built; and the summer house on top of the hill was used for
chickens and grain.
Later
when Clydesdales replaced the oxen, he added a blacksmith shop
including a blacksmith who not only shod the horses but hammered out
iron rims for the wagons and buggies as well as making farm
implements.
After
the buildings were up grandfather planted his orchard with apples,
pears, plums and cherries. The
gnarled and lichenhung trees still bear fruit today.
Fisher Family 1896
In
1874 Annie Gertrude, the youngest Fisher child, was born at Ferncliffe.
Although Metchosin was fairly isolated, life was not dull.
Grandmother was often called to attend the sick and wounded as
she was a born nurse. Babies
born before a doctor could get there were safely delivered by this
resourceful woman. Once
when one of her pupils at the Metchosin school cut his thumb with an
axe she promptly closed the wound with a hair from her head.
This technique she had learned from an Indian woman when her
own daughter Edith had fallen and gashed her forehead.
When
the Fishers first lived in Metchosin, there were no roads -only
extended deer trails used frequently by bear and cougar.
Along these forest trails grandmother rode her horse into
Victoria for staples, returning home with bulging saddlebags.
I am sure the settlers, to say nothing of the cougar and bears,
were treated to many an operatic aria as she rode along for singing
was as natural to her as breathing.
Her grandchildren have fond memories of the sound of her
contralto voice as she went about her errands.
A
few years later when Emily and Edith were in their teens there was a
wagon road. The girls
drove into Victoria every week for French and music lessons staying
overnight.
The
Fishers loved to entertain and as their family was growing up a second
and bigger house was built about 150 feet from the first.
The ground floor of the old house was made into a large
storeroom and I can remember the tantalizing fragrance of the place in
the fall when the barrels of apples and pears stood in rows against
the walls and hams as well as sides of bacon hung from the ceiling.
Gobbling up honey from one hundred hives of bees, the honey
extractor gave out its own aroma which seemed to blend all the rest
into a mellowness never to be forgotten.
The servants' quarters were upstairs.
Besides the outside help, granny had her Chinese cook and
houseboy, Yu and Y. I think these must have been English adaptations
of their real names but what's in a name when you could cook like Yu!
In
coming across part of an old guest book in the attic, I noted such
names as Pooley, Loewen, Wootten, Innes, O'Reilly, Musgrave, Dunsmuir
and Doering, indicating that travel was cornparatively quick and easy
on the two roads out from Victoria.
After one of Yu's dinners, the guests would either dance, play
games or have a musical evening. There were many talented people from all around Metchosin and
so it was easy for them to make their own entertainment whether under
twenty or over forty.
Elizabeth
and William Fisher lived on for many years at "Ferncliffe"
after their children had married.
Many changes had taken place as more and more people settled in
the district. The farm was reduced to forty acres and the William Head Road
bisected what once had been their property.
Yu and Y had gone and only Leon stayed to care for them.
"Ferncliffe" BC Archives Image B-07264
This
chapter of the pioneers of Metchosin would not be complete without
mention of Leon. That he
was born in China I know but in what province I have no idea.
He came to Victoria at the age of fourteen and took the job of
scullery boy under Yu at the Fishers.
A few years later he went back to China to be married, then
leaving his wife with her family he blithely returned to Victoria to
resume his duties in the Fisher kitchen. In a few years he took another trip to China, this time to
see his children. Leon
stayed with the Fishers for many years, gradually assuming more and
more responsibility as time went by.
The old couple were "Ganny-Gampa" to him now and no
son or daughter could have been more solicitous of their health and
comfort.
One
of my favourite pastimes as a little girl was to watch Leon iron
sheets and tablecloths. He
was better than a modern steam iron.
Grasping a flat iron from the hot stove, he would fill his
mouth with water and then with practised control direct the finest
spray ahead of the iron as it slid over the surface of the article
removing every tiny wrinkle.
When Leon figured I
had been a good girl and had not pestered him too much he would make
me my favourite treat. In
the cool slate-floored dairy sat rows of milkpans containing scalded
milk, each with its blanket of wrinkled cream, waiting to be skimmed
for churning into butter or used for devonshire cream.
Leon would cut a slice of homemade bread, smother it with
clotted cream and top it with brown sugar.
Then, with a big smile he would hand it to me.
My mouth waters just recalling it.
William
and Elizabeth Fisher celebrated their golden wedding on August 7,
1913. It was, according to the Colonist,
probably the first event of the kind in the district!
Another
five years of living at "Ferncliffe" was granted them but in
1918 Elizabeth died at the age of seventy-nine and was buried at St. Mary's.
William was buried there in 1924 at the age of eighty-four.
Their
sons and daughters gave a memorial window to St. Mary's in loving
memory of their parents who had been so much a part of Metchosin life
both in parish and community.
The
bracing sea air of Metchosin had assured a long life and the zest for
living for which these pioneers were noted.
"Requiescant
in pace."